Bamberg Day Three (Updated)

My plan for the day was to do more riding and stop a less breweries. I only stopped at one brewery along the way (plus one in Bamberg for dinner on the way home) but I was thwarted by four bierkellers as well.

Along the bike path just outside of Pettstadt is a small keller that had been recommended to me, but I had never been to as they normally open at 3pm and when I'm on my bike it's usually earlier than that. But today was a holiday (Whitsun) so they openned at 10:00am. It was about 10:45 when I went by, so why not have a beer, what could it hurt.

All set up to serve beer

The beer they serve is Löwenbräu Buttenheim Kellerbier. which is one of my favorites.

First beer of the morning

By the time I left it was starting to fill up with cyclists.

Just south of Pettstadt is one of the great experiences of cycling around here -- the Pettstadt Bike Ferry. Every day from April thru October the ferry runs carring bikes across the Regnitz. It costs €1 (50 Euro cents for pedestrians). There are no motors at all -- just a little bit of muscle from the ferryman and the flow of the river and various pivot points.

Pettstadt Ferry

Friday on the Ferry

The ferryman at work

Once across the Regnitz and the Main-Danube canal, I continued southward. I passed the breweries in Hirschaid, Buttenheim and Eggolsheim I had visited on Saturday. Suddenly a waypoint came into view on my GPS -- Witzgall Keller outside of Schlammersdorf. Norminally this keller is only open on Sundays and it is the only place you can drink the draft Witzgall Landbier. Well most places that are open Sundays are also open on holidays so I thought it worth a small detour. As I went by there was sadly no signs of life. I continued down the road to the village of Schlammersdorf and stopped at the brewery. They told me the keller would open at 2pm (1 1/2 hours from now) but they were closing to move to the keller but they had time to serve me a beer. I couldn't pass that up, so I had a glass of Witzgall Vollbier.

Vollbier from Brauerei Witzgall, Schlammersdorf.

Friday in from the Brauerei Witzgall

Now was decision time -- to continue down the canal bike path as I'd planned or hang around until 2pm and stop back it the Witzgall keller. I decided to continue on to Hallerndorf which has two nice breweries (Lieberth and Rittmayer) both of which have nice kellers in the village. I would get somethig to eat and then head back to the Witzgall Keller. Just before Hallerndorf my mobile phone rings. I pull over and answer and its Jürgen, a friend who lives near Ansbach. He and his wife and son were out visiting kellers. We decided to meet at Roppelts Keller in Stiebarlimbach, which was not far from Hallerndorf.

So I stoppet at Lieberth's Dorfkeller for some bratwurst and beer.

Leiberth Kellerbier

A view of the keller. It was still early (1pm) but it filled up while I was there.

Friday out in front of the keller

A bit later I pulled into Roppelts Keller, got a beer and found an empty table. About half way thru the beer Jürgen and family showed up. They were eating, so I had another beer to be sociable.

Roppelt Kellerbier, Stiebarlimbach

Jürgen was telling me of this great keller not too far away by car that served the beers from Baruerei Prechtel of Uehlfeld. He would bring me back afterwards to so I could ride home. I asked if it would be easier to bring the bike and he said yes, but they had only a small car. Not to worry, Friday is very flexible. So we packed up and went to Voggendorf.

How Friday traveled to Voggendorf

This was a more tradition keller, on the top of a hill, You could see the indivual cellars dug into

the side of the hill.

Voggendorfer Kellerberg.

Prechtel Kellerbier

Jürgen warned me the beer had an unusual flavor and that one needed to drink two -- the second one would be much better. He was right. There was a flowery note to the finish but it wasn't the kind that comes from hops. I could see how this would be a beer you either loved or hated.

Even the dogs were relaxed at the Viggendorfer Kellerberg

The Voggendorfer Keller

Jürgen's son Max was getting bored (as any 7 year would) so they decided to take me back towards Bamberg so I could ride home. On the way, we passed the Schwarzes Kreuz Keller in Eggolsheim, so we stopped for one last beer.

The dropped me off in fron of Braurei Kraus in Hirchaid, which I managed to avoid, then rode back to Bamberg. On the way I passed Spezial so I went in for dinner and a couple beer, then home to bed.

Distance ridden: 30 miles, plus or minus.

Bamberg Day Two

Some more pictures, words to follow. All from the area around Bad Staffelstein.

Location:Frauendorf,Bad Staffelstein,Germany

Bamberg Day One (Updated)

A word of advice -- do not start off your bike trip with a half liter of an 8% bockbier -- it makes the rest of the trip a little harder.

To be absolutely precise, I didn't start off the the Mönchsambacher Weihnachtsbock, I first had the Brauerei Beck (Trabelsdorf) "Zoigl" -- the "Zoigl" is in quotes because a true Zoigl is brewed a communal brewery and then fermented and aged at the gasthaus. This beer was brewed in the style of the famous Zoigl breweries of the Oberpfalz. Nice and hoppy but not overbalanced. If German brewers made an IPA it might taste like this.

Beck Zoigl with Gerhardt Schoolmann in the background.

Now for the bockbier -- it is probably the last keg of Brauerei Zehender's Christmas bock. I had mentioned once to Gerhardt that I had never had it on draft. It is released Decemeber 1 and in my two trips to Bamberg in December it had be sold out or not yet available at Cafe Abseits where I was there. So Gerhardt got the keg along with his usual supply of Mönchsambacher Maibock and put it on when he heard I was coming to town. Thank you, Gerhardt!

Mönchsambacher Weihnachtsbock

After these two beers it was off to the bike path down the Regnitz. I have a mathematics background and come from a mathematical family so I often describe things in those terms. Today's problem is one of optimization: What is the optimal distance between breweries along a bike path, giving the object is to actually get somewhere. If the are no breweries and very few, then the ride is not that interesting and I could have stayed home and ridden along the beach bike path. But breweries too close together is also a problem as you are constantly stopping and you never get a chance to really sober up between stops. They are probably a bit too close on this path.

The first stop was Brauerei Kraus in Hirschaid. That was described in the previous post. The next stop was Buttenheim where there are two breweries, St. Georgen and Löwenbräu. The St Georgen is the larger of the two and beer is readily available in Bamberg (and even sometimes in LA in bottles) and I think Löwenbräu is the better of the two anyway, so that was my choice. They are right next door to each other, by the way.

Löwenbräu Buttenheim Kellerbier

Friday at Löwenbräu

Next stop was Eggolsheim home of Brauerei Schwarzes Kreuz (the "Black Cross"). They didn't have any outside seating at the brewery pub -- which was empty probably because everybody was at the bierkeller on the edge of town. Unfortunately, I had only been there by car and I didn't want to waste time looking for it, so inside I went.

Schwarzes Kreuz Lagerbier

As is typical of many village brewery pubs, the decore hasn't been changed in decades. That is part of the charm of places like this. There was one other customer, an elderly man reading the newspaper as he drank his beer.

Friday in front of Schwarzes Kreuz, Eggolsheim

Next stop was the town (city really) of Forchheim, home to four breweries, of which I visted two.

The first stop was Brauerei Neder. I have been to Forchheim many times, but each time I was in the town center (as opposed to the great collection of beer kellers on the edge of town called the Kellerwald) Neder was closed, either because of a regular rest day or for vacation or once even they were renovating. So this was the first I had actually walked in the door. Then after I got my beer I walked back out and sat down outside.

Brauerei Neder Lagerbier

Friday at Brauerei Neder, Forchheim

The next stop was two doors down at Brauerei Hebendanz. Yes, I walked my bike, I didn't ride. Definately suboptimal brewery placement, with respect to bike riding.

Brauerei Hebendanz, Helles Exportbier

You see the value of a stoneware mug ("krug" here -- we might say "stein") -- by the time I was halfway thru the beer was definately starting to get lightstruck -- "skunked." No so much to make it undrinkable but noticeble nevertheless.

Friday at Brauerei Hebendanz, Forchheim

There used to be a tap room of another brewery about 3 doors further down, Brauerei Greif but they recently sold it to a developer who will turn it into a shop and apartments. So you have to visit the actual brewery, which is not in the city center.

By now it was 6pm or so and rather than ride back I decided to be lazy and take the train. On they way back to my apartment from the train station I passed by Fässla again so I decided to stop in for dinner and a beer.

Fässla Pils

So the final tally: rode 30 miles, visited 6 breweries, one beer pub. Rode past another 5 (Spezial, Mahrs and Keesemann in Bamberg, St. Georgen in Buttenhein, Eichhorn in Forchheim). Not a bad first day.

An experiment

I am writing this post while sitting in the biergarten of Brauerei Kraus, Hirschaid. That in itself it not so unusual but the way I am doing it is a first for me. Instead of my laptop I'm using my iPad.

It is a little more complicated than that because Brauerei Kraus doesn't have WiFi and I've been unable to find a Micro-SIM that fits the iPad (a regular phone SIM won't work). Riding to my rescue is a Cradlepoint PHS-300 "Portable Hot Spot." I plug my USB 3G modem into it and it creates a WiFi network that the iPad (or any WiFi device) can use to connect to the internet. And yes, it is battery powered as well.

And because this is supposed to be about beer and bicycling, a picture of my Krause Lagerbier...





Ain't technology wunnerful.

- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Location:Wiesenstraße,Hirschaid,Germany

Arrived in Bamberg

After a long hard flight and and hard train ride (it is the end of school plus a long weekend so the trains were absolutely packed) I arrived in Bamberg.

I was so tired after dinner (a Bamberger Zwiebel -- an onion stuffed with meatloaf) and three glasses of Schlenkerla, I was ready to call it a night. Didn't even have the energy to unpack the bike.

Saturday looks to be a great day, weather wise -- maybe the best day of the whole week, so I'll be sure to ride somewhere.

I'll leave you with a picture of my first beer...

First beer in Bamberg

On the plane ...

... but only as fat as Detroit for this leg. Then comes the teal test -- will my flight to Frankfurt go?

Update: So far so good. Just landing in Detroit and the Frankfurt flight is stll on time.

Update II: On the plane to Frankfurt. No WiFi so nothing more until we land.

Off to Germany... Part III

Well, the say the third time is the charm. In the morning it's my third attempt to get to Germany. So far it looks like everything is fine, but I think that volcano has it in for me.

Watch this space for updates...

Off to Germany -- Part II

Well, I am at the airport (LAX) and they say everything is good to go. I fly first to New York (JKF) so they have 5 hours while I'm flying to cancel the Frankfurt flight -- can you tell I am a pessimist this morning :)

Off to Germany -- On Hold

Well, we get to the airport Friday morning and between the time we left home and arrived at the check in counter, the flight to Frankfurt was canceled.

We were rebooked leaving Tuesday, but as I write this Sunday morning that is looking iffy.

If I get canceled again, I will rebook the trip for late May/Early June as I have too much schedule during May to be away. Plus the weather will be nicer then.

The Joys of Travel...

Off to Germany... Maybe

Well, we were all scheduled to head of to Germany on Friday for nine days or so (weather permitting) of bike riding around Bamberg. Friday was all packed in his suitcase and ready to go.

So I turn on the news and see that Iceland has blown up or something and it is causing havoc with transatlantic flights. We are flying thru Detroit (Delta) and our Frankfurt flight is scheduled to leave (and arrive) on time, something I don't believe. The same flight today is still sitting on the ground and is now schedule to leave 3 hours late and arrive 4 1/2 hours late.

Most of Lufthansa's flights from the US were canceled today and most US carriers canceled their flights to Frankfurt.

So I'll let you know what happens. My fear is that they tell us to go ahead and we get to Detroit and are stuck there for days on end.

Friday has new clothes

Bike Friday recent had a refurbishment special -- send the bike back to them and they would basically strip it to the frame, clean the components and replace anything that needed replacing. And as a special bonus, you could get the frame repainted for half off and half off the price of special (premium) colors.

Back when I ordered the bike, I really thought about an upgrade to British Racing Green, but I already was spending more than I ever thought I would on a bike, so I went with Cream Soda Blue, one of the stock colors.

So when I decided to go for the refurb -- since I'll be doing two biking trips in Germany this year -- I didn't hold back and went for the repaint as well -- in British Racing Green, of course.

Friday's new suit

Close up of the logo

In other news, I'm off to Bamberg for 9 days of riding around and stopping at the passing breweries. Check back for updates.

Also my brother just got his own Bike Friday New World Tourist. His is red with a 9 Speed Hub (mostly flat where he lives). He'll be joining my Dad and I on the August bike ride.

Friday's Brother

If you do the facebook thing, there is a facebook page on the trip here or just search for BRAU-F -- Bike Ride Across UnterFranken :)

I'm Still Here and Still Riding my Bike and Drinking Beer

I posted most of last years bike trip to Have Beer Will Travel -- there was probably more beer drinking than riding.

There is some news. In order to get better weight distribution, I ordered a front rack for Friday and a set of Arkel T-28 Panniers. And instead of the huge Arket Utility Baskets in the rear, I got a pair of smaller Arkel GT-18 Panniers. Technically, these are also front panniers to compliemnt their gigantic GT-54s but you can also use them in the rear (which I will do).

Friday decked out with new gear

In addition I'll be doing two bike trips to Germany this year. One in April which (weather permitting) will just be days trips from Bamberg as a base, much as I did last year. Then in August a group (5 at this point) will ride down the Main river from Bamberg to Aschaffenburg over a five day period (its 200 miles so a leisurely 40/miles a day). At this point, 4 of the 5 will be on Bike Fridays (3 NWT like mine and one Ticket).

So check back starting in mid April.

Here is another shot of the new gear...