Bamberg Day 3 -- To Freudeneck and back

Too busy drinking beer to write much (actually, anything). Enjoy the pictures...

Bamberg Day 2 -- to Forchheim

First the pictures, words as I write then...

Ferry cross the Regnitz

Bamberg Day 1 -- to Merkendorf and back

When transporting bikes there is always some adjustments to be made upon arrival. This is especially true with foldable bikes. So we planned an easy day to start, figuring we'd need to stop for adjustments.

First stop was Cafe Abseits for some warmup beers. The Beer of the Month was Hummel Kellerbier from Merkendorf -- where we were heading -- but I figured it was worth trying here in case the brewery was closed. We also had the ever great Mönchambacher Lager from Brauerei Zehender and the Huppendorfer Vollbier from Brauerei Grasser.

Hummel Kellerbier and Mönchambacher Lager

Huppendorfer Vollbier

Suitably refreshed we headed for Memmelsdorf, home of two breweries: Brauerei Hohn and Brauerei Drei-Kronen. We saved Brauerei Hohn for a possible visit on the way back and stopped at Drei-Kronen for lunch. We had one of each of their beers: Lager, Keller-pils and Stöffla (a rauchbier). The Stöffla was much smokier than in the past. Before there was just a hint of smoke but now it is smokier than Spezial (but not even close to Schlenkerla). The Lager was clean and crisp but the Keller-pils had a bit of diacetyl as it warmed up.

Drei Kronen Lager, Keller-pils and Stöffla

A few kilometers  down the road (and up a small hill) is the village on Merkendorf, also home to two breweries, Brauerei Wagner and Brauerei Hummel. I knew Wagner was closed for summer hoildays so we were hoping that Hummel would be open, and they were.

Fridays in front of Hummel

They had three beers on draft, Kellerbier, Pils and something called Cowboy Schwartzbier. So we ordered one of each.

Cowboy Schwartzbier, Pils and Kellerbier

The Pils was the best of the bunch. The Kellerbier we'd had earlier at Cafe Abseits was actually better -- this one had a bit of diacetyl -- which I should mention is not uncommon in the summer months. Because beer demand is up, many breweries reduce the amount of time they cold condition the beer ("lagering" we'd call it) and this shorter time can increase the amount of diacetyl.  For you non-beer-geeky readers, diacetyl mostly comes across as a buttery taste in the beer. It is appropriate for some styles (mainly British Ales).

The Cowboy Schwartzbier wasn't anything special -- it really tasted like the kellerbier with color beer added.

Hummel brews a pretty wide range of beers and had another 5 varieties available in bottles, including a Weizenbock. I've enjoyed this beer when I've had it, but it is not a good beer to drink when doing a bike ride on a warm day.

Beer menu at Brauerei Hummel

The ride back to Bamberg was un-eventful. We passed by Brauerei Göller in Drosendorf and Brauerei Hohn in Memmelsdorf, but did stop at Brauerei Fässla back in Bamberg. It was too had to pass up. I left the camera on the bike, so you'll just have to take our word for it. Both the Lager and Pils were fine.

Distance ridden: 30 km

Arrived in Bamberg

We had a good tailwind (which made for a rough flight) so we actually made it in a little early. Which was good, since the easiest train connection would have been tough to make if the flight (or baggage) was late. We found Tom and made our train with plenty of time to spare.

We put our bike suitcases in the bicycle car. I'm sure we got some negative thoughts headed our way as the bike car (later) filled up, but hey, it's for bicycles and they don't specify the form.

Three Bike Fridays in their shells

We were taking a relatively slow train as to avoid changing in Würzburg where the lack of a elevator makes for a hard time if you have heavy luggage. In good time we arrived, found a taxi to hold all our stuff and were are our lodgings for our Bamberg stay.

The first order of business was to assemble the bikes, to make sure there wasn't anything damaged in transit. I takes about an hour for me to get everything together. The bike itself is about half that -- putting on the racks and other accessories takes awhile. Soon the bikes were ready...

Almost a month of Fridays

We needed liquid energy after the tough trip, so next stop was Schlenkerka for a beer or three.

Obligatory picture of the first beers in Bamberg -- Schlenkerla

We took a walk around the part of the Altstadt where the Sandkerwa will take place, making note of all the importance places (the brewery stands).  After getting one need fulfilled (beer) we decided on filling another (food) before the getting to the most important (sleep). Klosterbräu is right around the corner from out apartments so we wandered over.

Klostbräu Braunbier

It is Pfefferlinge (chanterelle mushrooms) season so we all ended up having a Schnitzel with Pfefferlinge cream sauce with Spätzle. It was delicious. 


Wednesday we are going to take a short ride out to Merkendorf -- which is a bit of risk as I know one of the two breweries is closed for holidays. But there are 4 other breweries on our route and I'm sure at least a couple of them will be open (I'm an optimist)
more

Bamberg Day Eight

Some pictures for now... words later.

Eichhorn, Dörfleins Lagerbier

Eichhorn is also known as Brauerei Schwarzer Adler

Lagerbier, Brauerei Sippel, Banuach

Friday only had a sip here

Brauerei Fischer, Freudeneck Lagerbier. Note the cool wooden bierdeckel

Friday creating a bottleneck at Fischer, Freudeneck

Wagner Kemmern Pils

Wagner Kemmern Schwarzbier

Taking a pitcher home by bike.

Friday in front of the new brauhaus

Robesbierre

Spezial Lagerbier

Sunset at Spezial Keller

More Mönchsambacher Export.

Bamberg Day Seven

The day was supposed to be cloudy and chance of some sprinkles, so I decided to go for a ride. I hadn't been west yet, so I decided to head for Stettfeld for lunch and then go on to Zeil or even Hassfurt.

I got a bit of a late start, so I stopped in Bischberg at Brauerei zur Sonne for a "freshener."

It may have been me with the first beer of the day, but it didn't taste as crisp as it usually does. But it was still good to the last drop...

Friday getting some Sonne

On the way you pass Braierei Mainlust in Vireth (whose beers I generally don't care much for) and a short detour up the hill will take you to Brauerei Kundmüller in Weiher (whose beers I like very much) but I passed both of them by. I probably should have stopped because a couple km outside of Staffelbach (home of Brauerei Hartlein and the last village before Stettfeld) the heavens opened up and I got drenched. I managed to duck under an overpass and get my jacket and rain cover for my helmet. Then I continued on where I found (as I expected) a closed Brauerei Hartlein. It doesn't open until 5pm but I had hoped that somebody would be around so I could at least wait inside. No joy.

So I went on the Stettfeld (about 4 km) and got thoroughly soaked. Just as I pulled in the Stettfeld the rain let up and by the time I got to Adler-Bräu it had pretty much ended. I stopped and checked the front door -- it was locked. Oh noes! After a hour or two of panic (actually about 10 seconds) I went around the side and saw their biergarten was open. So in I went.

There was nobody at the serving window so I check the lunch menu while I waited. My (and many others) tradition dish here is "Schinken mit Ei" -- with literally translated is "Ham with Egg" -- sort of scrambled eggs with ham mixed in. But it wasn't on the menu. Oh noes! The nice young lady who runs the place during the week came out of the main building and asked what I wanted. I ordered a beer and ask if I could have Schinken-mit-Ei. Of course, she said and asked if my father was with me this time (he was the last two times I was here). I told her I was alone but my father would come in August. I don't think they remember us so much as the bikes -- they are distinctive.

The beer came, then the food and all was right with the world, except I was still outside and not inside were it was warm.

Schwarzer Alder Pils (you'll have to take my word for it)

A wonderful lunch

A picture of the biergarten (technically the "Brauereihof")

Friday at Adler-Bräu, Stettfeld

The next town is Ebelsbach, which used to have two breweries -- and still has two buildings labeled "Brauerei" but both no longer brew themselves. The weather still looked a bit threatening so I decide to play it safe (and wimp out) and take the train back to Bamberg. While waiting for the train the sun actually peeked out and I almost changed my mind but common sense prevailed and I went home.

When I got back to the apartment (and got warm and dry) it was still early so I went down to Schlenkerla for a pick me up. I was just having my first sip when the four guys from yesterday showed up, looking as if they too got caught in the rain. They joined me at my (standing) table and went to get beers. It is always fun to watch people take their first sip of Schlenkerla. Often you see a big frown, usually its a confused look ("is this beer?") and then either a smile or frown. Occasionally you get a big grin right from the start. I got three grins and a frown which is much better than average.

After a few beers it was time for some food. I was headed to Klosterbräu but they had lunched there and so we parted ways. I'm sure they'll be back to Bamberg again.

The flagship beer at Klosterbräu is their Braunbier -- it has been up and down in quality the past few years but it was on today.

Klosterbräu Braunbier

Dinner was a schnitzel with Spargel (while asparagus) and a Maibock for desert. The first time I had the Klosterbräu Maibock was back in 2002. It was very tasty and over 7% alcohol but well hidden -- this makes for a dangerous combination. This years edition was good, but not up to standards of that first one.

Klosterbräu Maibock

It was not yet dark (about 9pm) so I decided to walk up the hill (Stephansberg) to Stöhrenkeller and see what beers they had tonight. It turns out to be Mönschambacher Export, a beer I've never had on draft before. So I had a couple, just for research purposes, mind you. I still like the Lager more, but this was nice and well worth having.

Mönchsambacher Export

By now it was past 11pm and time to call it a night. Tomorrow is supposed to be the last day without rain while I'm here, so a bike ride is in order.